Every year, when spring brings out the first flowers, Watches and Wonders rumors sprout from the well-nourished soil of the internet. The more or less well-informed industry experts sow the seeds of speculation, setting social media hype and excitement into motion. Only on April 1st will we find out which rumors actually come true, and which ultimately remain in the realm of fantasy when the trade fair opens its doors. Until then, we can only speculate. Or to put it more positively: think wishfully. So let’s dream together about the innovations that the brand with the crown could have in store for us this year. Because after all, a little bit of dreaming is a special part of this annual event.
Watches and Wonders – The Event
The Watches and Wonders trade fair (formerly known as the “Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie” or “SIHH”) is a major international luxury watch fair that was first launched in Geneva in 1991. It was originally organized by the “Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie” (FHH) and served as a platform for the presentation of high-end watch brands and their innovations in the art of watchmaking. In 2020, the event was revived under the new name “Watches and Wonders” to make the fair broader and more inclusive. Since then, the event has been held annually, establishing itself as both an in-person and digital fair. This year, the trade fair will open its doors to the industry and general public from April 1 to 7, 2025. 60 manufacturers will present their innovations. Alongside Cartier and Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor are certainly the most renowned watchmakers at the fair.
Rolex And the Rumor Mill
Like it or not, the rumors and discussions in the media surrounding this year’s new releases are focused almost exclusively on Rolex. Rolex is the best-known and most coveted luxury watch brand in the world. It’s the brand that generates the most headlines and industry reach. The art of secrecy, the brand’s charisma, and unexpected and controversial new releases (The “lefty” GMT-Master II “Sprite” and puzzle dials of previous years are just two examples) strengthen the mystery surrounding Rolex. Besides, nobody likes the feeling of missing out, do they? So let’s take a look at the hopes of the community and summarize the wild rumour mill into an easily digestible list:
“Rolex GMT-Master” – An Anniversary Model On Its Way?
In addition to the 120th anniversary of the brand itself, the GMT-Master model series, which is popular with travelers and cosmopolitans, is also celebrating its 70th birthday. And similar to the 50th anniversary, when the reference 116718LN was released, a new GMT-Master could be waiting in the wings. Green and gold is a popular combination – so the anniversary version could be a gold GMT-Master with a black and green ceramic bezel and a green dial with the option of a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Our guess: Probably. In typical Rolex fashion, this would be a minimal change to the all-gold GMT-Master II presented in 2023 with the reference 126718GRNR.
“Coke” or “Blueberry”?
Since the new Pepsi GMT was released in 2018, there has been speculation about a model with a red and black bezel. So it comes as no surprise that the “Coke” is also eagerly anticipated this year. However, there is also the idea of a “Blueberry” edition, which could become the anniversary edition of this model series instead of the gold GMT-Master. Perhaps a platinum version of the GMT-Master II with a blue bezel and a blue dial or a meteorite dial variant as seen on the white gold Pepsi 126719BLRO?
Our guess: The “Blueberry” as a new color variant is a long shot. Rolex added another color option to its collection last year with the “Bruce Wayne” GMT-Master. The “Coke” on the other hand could finally appear in white gold for the anniversary. The suspense was maintained long enough.
GMT-Master Hulk?
Another Rolex GMT-Master speculation for this article feeds off a recent post on Instagram claiming to show new Rolex designs. It shows a “normal,” non-lefty version of the “Sprite” – but with a green dial. This could indicate that the Lefty Sprite will be removed from the range and replaced by a new version with a crown on the right-hand side – with a green dial as a possible anniversary edition. Our guess: Possible, as the “Sprite” with the crown on the left could not completely conquer every horological heart, even while the color combination itself is very popular.
“Breakfast at Tiffany’s” Daytona or “Wizard of Oz” Sky-Dweller?
The same post also shows a variant of the Daytona on the popular rubber strap with a Tiffany blue dial, and a Sky-Dweller with a shiny green dial on a Jubilee bracelet. Both releases would probably be a direct hit. After all, the Daytona on a rubber strap in rose or solid gold is currently omnipresent, while rubber straps are in tune with a sporty zeitgeist. Furthermore, the Tiffany blue dial would simply be a safe bet for Rolex, because models with this dial color always go through the roof. The last release in turquoise by the way was a good five years ago with the Oyster Perpetual 36. As a flagship model, the Sky-Dweller is often the focus of Rolex when it comes to technology and elegance. The combination of the popular Jubilee strap and green dial features would also be a pretty safe bet.
Our guess: It’s quite possible that Rolex will present two new highlight variants of the Daytona and Sky-Dweller series. Because both models would combine the best from other series.
The Explorer rediscovers itself
Another candidate on our list is of course the Rolex Explorer. A solid gold model could follow its two-tone predecessor. Some are even speculating about a variant in solid gold with a dark blue dial. It’s also possible that Rolex will pick up on the trend towards more compact, smaller watches with a 36- or 39-mm stainless steel version and a white dial, as with the Explorer II. Our guess: Pretty unlikely. The white dial in particular should be reserved for the Explorer II.
Lightning Re-energizing the Milgauss?
The YouTuber ID Guy and other bloggers are longing for an update to the Rolex Milgauss based on the case of the less popular Rolex Air-King. So a simple Oyster case in 39 or 40 mm with a glossy black dial, Oyster bracelet, and possibly red accents and hands might be coming our way. Quite a creative and exciting game of thought and design. Our guess: It’s very unlikely that Rolex will revive this model this year after discontinuing the Milgauss in 2023.
Stone Dials Are the New Puzzle
Rolex revealed a colorful surprise or two at recent Watches and Wonders: Just think of the colorful Oyster Perpetual Day-Date dials in pink, turquoise, green, or yellow, or the Day-Date with a puzzle dial. This year, the play of colors could be taken up in the form of new stone dials. The 1908, Datejust, or Day-Date models could be suitable target models here. Stone dials, e.g. made of green malachite, blue lapis lazuli, or golden-brown tiger eye stone, are very popular with collectors and vintage fans. Our guess: It’s entirely possible that Rolex will refine individual models with colorful stone dials. However, Rolex often works against the trend rather than with it.
Watches and Wonders 2025: Rolex, where is the journey headed?
Even though we can’t or don’t want to verify any of the watch world rumors, and constant speculation may get on some people’s nerves, I personally always find it nice to see how active the community is. Watch fans put a lot of thought and work into their predictions. I appreciate this creativity on the part of the community. On the other hand, I’m critical of the fact that the creativity is limited to Rolex, while other brands are hardly in the focus of the rumor mill at all. But we all have a part to play in this. Whether it’s about Rolex or other brands – we’ll be on the edge of our seats in the coming days until the actual watches are released at this year’s Watches and Wonders. We’ll find out where the journey will take us on April 1st at the latest – and will of course be reporting.
