What actually makes a watch iconic? Is it the material, the design, or the craftsmanship? The answer isn’t quite that simple. Often, it’s the social and cultural contexts that play the biggest role in the creation of legends. Certainly, a watch stands out in the luxury segment due to its consistency in the market, its design’s timelessness, and its technology’s uniqueness. Since the 1930s, many brilliant innovations, high-quality materials, and inimitable finishes have contributed to the development of such iconic timepieces.
Yet, only a few pieces remain part of the coveted collections of watch enthusiasts today. In our top ten of the greatest watch icons of all time, you can discover how these models became the classics they are today. We don’t intend this list to be a ranking, but rather a guide to the world of luxury watches.
1. Rolex Submariner
For many, the Rolex brand alone represents the pinnacle of luxury. Wearing a watch like this signals success. With its classic design language, Rolex embodies both understatement and confidence. At the same time, the brand employs movements of the highest precision. The case of the Submariner, in particular, impresses even the most discerning eyes with its impeccable craftsmanship.
These qualities contribute to its exceptional value retention, all at comparatively reasonable prices for a luxury timepiece. It’s also one of the few watches that suits almost any occasion. A Rolex Submariner pairs just as effortlessly with jeans and a T-shirt as it does with a dark suit and tie.
Read also: Five Years With the Rolex Submariner: The Long-Term Review
2. Omega Speedmaster Professional
The Speedmaster is perfect for those who embrace risk and are driven by curiosity. Having accompanied several NASA moon missions, it remains the only wristwatch certified for astronauts in space. The first versions of the Speedmaster Professional were introduced in 1957. Since then, it has undergone continuous development with various movements, capturing the hearts of watch enthusiasts worldwide.
Despite these advancements, the original design has changed very little. Special editions, new materials, and innovations continue to excite collectors. Robust yet elegant ceramic cases provide a striking contrast to the classic stainless steel version, which can be paired with a brown leather strap, for instance. The Omega Speedmaster is available with manual winding, automatic, or an in-house manufacture movement, offering something for every preference.
3. Patek Philippe Calatrava
The Patek Philippe Calatrava comes closer to the ideal of a classic dress watch than almost any other timepiece. Inspired by the design of pocket watches, which were still common when it was first introduced in 1932, it feels almost weightless on the wrist and impresses with its understated elegance and reliable movement technology.
Its slim case design makes it the perfect accessory for a suit and tailored shirt with snug-fitting, turned-up cuffs. For those who value understatement, the Calatrava offers a genuine original, admired by connoisseurs of fine horology.
4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet exudes subtle elegance, yet its initial appearance was nothing short of revolutionary. As the first steel watch in the luxury segment, it made a bold impact when it debuted in the early 1970s, commanding a higher price than many gold watches of the time, despite being made of steel. Designed by the legendary Gérald Genta—who later created the iconic Patek Philippe Nautilus—the Royal Oak has left an indelible mark on the world of horology.
In addition to the classic model, the Royal Oak is available in numerous variations, including chronographs, perpetual calendars, and tourbillons. The sporty and more eye-catching Royal Oak Offshore has even become its own collection within the Audemars Piguet family, embodying the brand’s dedication to innovation and craftsmanship.
5. Zenith El Primero
A Zenith El Primero isn’t simply built—it is crafted, created, born. The name “El Primero” translates to “the first,” a nod to the complexity of its movement, which is both a blessing and a challenge. The movement, intended to be simple, incorporates a central rotor that drives the mechanism at 36,000 vibrations per hour. To this day, the technology behind this legendary movement rivals the precision of modern automatic watches.
The El Primero is still regarded as the most precise series-produced chronograph in the world. Its prestige was further cemented when Rolex chose to use a modified version of the El Primero movement for its iconic Daytona chronographs from 1988 to 2000.
6. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
For decades, becoming a race car driver has been a childhood dream for many, and the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona embodies this dream more than almost any other chronograph. Designed specifically with motorsports in mind, its timekeeping functions are perfectly suited to the needs of professional racers. The Daytona’s self-winding movement combines impeccable precision with unmatched durability.
Whether at the racetrack or any other occasion, the Daytona stands out as both a stylish statement and a functional masterpiece. First introduced in the 1960s, the Daytona remains one of the most sought-after and legendary watches ever made. Its popularity has soared to the point where acquiring a new steel model with the coveted black dial is still a significant challenge.
7. TAG Heuer Carrera
Like the Rolex Daytona, the TAG Heuer Carrera draws inspiration from the world of motorsports. Its timekeeping functionality and robust design have made it a favorite among both amateur and professional race car drivers. The name “Carrera,” Spanish for “race,” is imbued with references to legendary cars, race tracks, and historic racing events, perfectly capturing the spirit of motorsport.
With an automatic Swiss movement and a power reserve of up to 50 hours, the Carrera delivers reliable performance even under extreme conditions. It continues to be a popular choice for racing enthusiasts, combining precision engineering with an unmistakable racing heritage.
8. Cartier Tank
The Cartier Tank takes a stylistically distinct approach compared to most luxury watches. Unlike the traditional round shape derived from pocket watch designs, Louis Cartier broke the mold in 1917 by giving the Tank a rectangular case. Though initially considered too modern for its time when it went into production in 1919, Cartier remained committed to this iconic design.
The Tank’s basic shape has remained unchanged, evolving with subtle updates over the years. Today, it is recognized as a must-have in any luxury watch collection, a timeless piece that embodies both innovation and classic style.
9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso also defies the conventional round shape, opting instead for a distinctive rectangular design that makes it instantly recognizable. First introduced in 1931, the Reverso quickly gained a dedicated following, particularly among fans of its elegant Art Deco style. What sets this watch apart is its ingenious reversible case mechanism, originally designed to protect the delicate watch glass from impacts—especially useful for polo players, who were the intended audience when the watch was created.
Today, this reversible mechanism serves as both a homage to the brand’s heritage and a unique feature, offering the possibility of a second dial, a display case back, or a smooth surface ideal for personalized engravings. The Reverso is not only an engineering marvel but also a timeless symbol of sophistication.
10. Breitling Navitimer
No list of iconic watches would be complete without the legendary Breitling Navitimer. Launched in 1952 as an evolution of the Chronomat, this iconic pilot’s watch has become a hallmark of aviation timepieces. The name “Navitimer” combines “navigation” and “timer,” reflecting its exceptional functionality for pilots.
The Navitimer’s standout feature is its slide rule bezel, which allows pilots to perform complex calculations, such as fuel consumption, unit conversions, and determining climb or descent rates—all without the need for external instruments. Since the debut of the reference Navitimer 806, numerous iterations have been released, incorporating upgraded movements, modernized designs, and enhanced functionality. However, the classic white sub-dials, introduced in 1959, and the signature slide rule bezel remain defining characteristics of this iconic model.
