10/17/2024
 5 minutes

These Watches Made by German Manufacturers Fly Under the Radar

By Sebastian Swart
Sinn-6000-2-1

These watches made by German manufacturers fly under the radar

Germany has established a firm place for itself in the world of luxury watches, and is home to some of the most renowned watch manufacturers in the world. Although Switzerland is generally regarded as the Mecca of watchmaking, many German manufacturers are on an equal footing with Swiss luxury brands in terms of precision, craftsmanship, and innovation. While Glashütte has established itself as a center for the art of German watchmaking, other German regions are also home to well-known quality brands. Some have a long tradition, and have been creating timepieces at a high standard for years. This article is presenting three watches from German manufacturers that still fly under the radar for many watch enthusiasts.

Glashütte Original Sixties – Simple Three-hand Elegance

Simple, elegant, 1960s style – Glashütte Original Sixties   The roots of the Saxon brand Glashütte Original go back to 1845, meaning this manufacturer looks back on a rich heritage. After the end of the Second World War, however, the company was expropriated by the East German government, which transferred it to the VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetrieb (GUB). It was not until 1994 that Glashütte Original was revived by the entrepreneur Heinz W. Pfeifer. Since then, the watchmaker has again become one of the most important names in the international luxury watch industry. Many of Glashütte Original’s collections draw from designs developed in-house in the 1960s and 70s. This is reflected in their names, such as with the Sixties series. You’ll find five distinctly simple three-hand models within the Sixties collection, of which the variant with the reference number 1-39-52-04-02-04 is perhaps the most classic. The stainless steel case of the Glashütte Original Sixties has a diameter of 39 mm, making the watch suitable for slim and medium-sized wrists. The domed dial is designed in the style of the 1960s. This particular one is galvanized in matte black with applied white indices. The 3, 6, 9, and 12 positions feature Arabic numerals whose typography is reminiscent of the style of the 1960s. The water resistance of the watch is 30 meters (3 bar, 98 feet). The Glashütte Original in-house movement 39-52 ticks away inside this watch, which offers a power reserve of around 40 hours. Remarkable about this movement is the Glashütte three-quarter plate with striping, a swan neck regulator, as well as a skeletonized winding rotor with a double-G symbol made of 21 karat gold. The finely decorated movement can be viewed through a sapphire crystal case back. You can buy an unworn Glashütte Original Sixties 1-39-52-04-02-04 for around $8,000. The stainless steel watch is also available with a blue or silver dial. Glashütte Original also offers two rose gold versions, which are noticeably more expensive at around $9,000.

Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon phases

A moon phase at an affordable price – Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph   Our second watch today also comes from the German town of Glashütte. The history of the Union Glashütte brand dates back to 1893. At that time, Glashütte watchmaker Johannes Dürrstein laid the company’s foundation with the “Union Glashütte” watch factory. At the beginning of the 20th century, the watch market was dominated by expensive luxury pieces. Dürrstein’s aim was to offer high-quality watches at moderate prices. After the end of the Second World War, Union Glashütte was also transferred to VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetrieb, and disappeared from the market. It was not until 1996 that the Swatch Group took over Union Glashütte and repositioned the brand as a high-quality, more affordable alternative to the far more expensive timepieces from the region. One collection from Union Glashütte is Belisar. In addition to three-hand watches, there are also chronographs such as the Belisar Chronograph Moon phase (ref. D014.425.16.087.00). The case of this model is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 42 mm, making the watch suitable for medium and slightly larger wrists. The dial is gray and applied with silver indices. Following the layout of the base caliber, the subdials are located at positions 6, 9, and 12 – the namesake moon phase is housed at the 6 o’clock position. In addition to the day of the week and month, this watch also displays the date. This is indicated by an additional hand on the outer edge of the dial. The UNG-25.S1 caliber powers this watch. This is a movement based on the ETA caliber 7751, and modified by Union Glashütte. It has a power reserve of around 65 hours, a rotor with the Union logo, perlage on the main plate, and blued screws. This caliber is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase has 100 meters (10 bar, 328 feet) of water resistance, making it suitable for practically all everyday situations. A mint condition example of this model can be purchased for around $3,300. Variants with a black (ref. D014.425.16.057.01) or white (ref. D014.425.16.017.00) dial are also available.

Sinn 6000 – The Financial District Watch

Three time zones at a glance – Sinn 6000 Financial District Watch   The Sinn watch brand was founded in 1961 in Frankfurt am Main by Helmut Sinn, a former flight instructor and pilot, under the name “Helmut Sinn Spezialuhren.” Sinn watches have always been characterized by their great functionality, robustness and, thanks to direct sales, excellent value for money. The company initially focused on the development of high-quality cockpit clocks and navigation instruments for aviation. In the 1960s, the brand gained recognition through the production of pilot’s watches for the German Armed Forces and other military units. Today, Sinn offers watches for a variety of purposes, including diving watches and rugged emergency watches for rescue workers, as well as luxurious timepieces for everyday wear. One example of the latter category is the Model 6000, also known as the Financial District Watch. Sinn introduced this watch in 1999 to pay tribute to its home town and financial metropolis, Frankfurt am Main, Germany. The Sinn 6000 was developed for watch wearers who want to keep an eye on three time zones, often a very useful function on the trading floor. To emphasize the connection to Frankfurt, the dial features the words “Frankfurt am Main,” while the rotor is decorated with the skyline of the Hessian metropolis. The watch has a 38.5 mm fully polished stainless steel case; a rose gold version is also available. With a water resistance of 100 meters (10 bar, 328 feet), the Financial District Watch is also ideally equipped for all kinds of uses outside of the trading floor. At the heart of the watch is the L100 caliber from the Swiss movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret, which you can view through a sapphire crystal case back. The movement provides the timepiece with a classic chronograph function with subdials at 3, 6, and 9, as well as a date complication located at the 4:30 position. You can read the additional time zones using the 12-hour bezel and GMT hour hand. A second crown at 10 o’clock allows you to adjust the 12-hour bezel. When fully wound, the L100 has a power reserve of 60 hours. The Sinn 6000 in stainless steel costs around $3,000 on a five-row polished and satin-finished steel bracelet. You should budget around $9,000 for the rose gold model on a leather strap.   That’s our list of three watches from German manufacturers that fly under the radar. What’s your favorite model?


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About the Author

Sebastian Swart

I've been using Chrono24 for years to buy and sell watches, as well as for research purposes. I've had an infatuation with watches for as long as I can remember. As a …

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