Many of my colleagues have already racked their brains for this series and published their own perfect watch collections for $24,000. That makes it both easier and harder for me to make my own list – so many exciting models have already been mentioned! Then there’s the challenge of staying within budget, which at first seemed quite easy – “I could easily stay within my theoretical $24,000 budget!” I thought. But actually, I have to admit that the selection of watches overwhelmed me somewhat. In the end, my collection is a good mix (in my opinion) of watches that have been on my wish list for a long time, timepieces that I admire for their design or technical sophistication, and a little vintage surprise find.
My Daily Wearer: Junghans Max Bill Small Automatic
Let’s start with a watch that has been on my wish list since my early days at Chrono24. In my opinion, this is a perfect daily wearer: The Junghans Max Bill Kleine Automatic. What initially appealed to me here was the clear, minimalist dial design for which the models in the Max Bill series are known. As is typical of the Bauhaus style of the 1960s, it has a very tidy and straightforward appearance. This leaves room for the specially developed typography, which makes an even better impression this way (anyone who knows me knows that I can be either thrilled or driven mad by the choice of font). The model pays homage to the early days of the popular line, combining the design features of the first version from the 1960s with modern technology, thus bringing it into the modern age. The diameter of the PVD-coated stainless steel case remains true to the original at 34 mm. Hidden inside, however, is the automatic J800.1 movement instead of a manual caliber. With a power reserve of 38 hours and water resistance of 3 bar, the watch is a reliable companion for everyday wear and, with a price tag around $1,250, it’s the perfect start to my collection.
The Dressy One: Longines DolceVita
Rectangular case, a dial with Roman numerals, railroad minute markers, and blued hands – I wouldn’t blame you if the ever-popular Cartier Tank comes to mind. After all, the roots of the Tank and DolceVita both go back to the early 20th century and the watches shared the same Art Deco influences. And these are exactly what I like. If I had to choose from the many different versions of the DolceVita, I would go for the model in 18K yellow gold with the reference L5.255.6.71.0. I’d want it on a simple black alligator leather strap, which could easily be exchanged for another band if necessary thanks to the Longines strap changing system. Beneath the sapphire crystal and silver dial with “Flinker” decoration, the quartz caliber L176 reliably does its job to display the hours, minutes, and small seconds at 6 o’clock. All in all, it’s an elegant timepiece that looks great both in the office and at evening events. And with a price starting around $5,200, the DolceVita can certainly hold its own against comparable Tank models in terms of value for money.
Vintage Surprise: An Omega Seamaster Vintage Chronograph
I’m treading on thin ice here, because vintage watches are a niche that I haven’t delved into nearly deeply enough to be able to make an informed decision about. You may laugh at me for this, but I still think that the perfect collection should include at least one vintage model. I have always particularly liked the vintage versions of the Omega Seamaster from the 1960s. What surprised me, however, was that I was so captivated by this model: an Omega Seamaster Chronograph ref. 105.004-64 from 1965. Since vintage watches are often smaller in terms of case diameter – 35 mm in this case – this chronograph earned a second glance from me. And I’m glad I did, because when I looked closer, I discovered an interesting detail: Hidden inside the model is the legendary caliber 321, a robust and reliable column-wheel chronograph caliber developed in the 1940s that is still highly prized, especially among collectors. However, it only achieved worldwide fame after it was used in the first Speedmaster models to land on the Moon. In addition to this historic interior, the exterior of the chronograph also impresses me: The silver dial looks understated and uncluttered, and in combination with the gold hands and indices, it provides that certain vintage charm that even small signs of wear and scratches don’t detract from. For a price of $5,700, this collector’s item could be mine.
Sporty All-Rounder: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80
I don’t think I need to say much about this model, as many of my colleagues have already done so. Integrated stainless steel bracelet with a quick-change system, a remarkable power reserve of 80 hours, colorful dial variants, and a price that, depending on the version, does not leave too deep a hole in your wallet: In short, the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is a fun and versatile companion. I own one myself and I’m still a big fan of the watch after wearing it for a good year and a half. What I like best – apart from the sporty, classic design – is the feel. Even though I initially had to get used to the stainless steel bracelet (and especially the clasp) on my wrist, I now love the fact that the watch has a felt presence. While my choice in the past was one of the 35-mm quartz models, I would now treat myself to the mechanical upgrade. In terms of design, I would go for the reference T931.207.41.111.00 made of stainless steel with an 18K gold bezel and mother-of-pearl dial – list price here is around $2,100.
The Wow Piece: Bvlgari Serpenti
In case you were wondering where the significant chunk of my budget is heading, here’s the answer. For me, this timepiece is the epitome of a jewelry watch and is so elegant and stylish that even Hollywood icons like Sofia Loren and Liz Taylor couldn’t resist it: the Bvlgari Serpenti. It is the “wow piece” of my fictitious collection. I’ve probably lost all the tech enthusiasts by now. A quartz watch as the star, with no complications or technical gimmicks? Oh yes! Maybe I’m just someone who loves pretty things, but this watch has stuck with me for years, even though it’s way over my budget. However, I have changed my mind a few times within the model line – there is such a large selection of materials and design variations to choose from. Nevertheless, the iconic design remains largely the same: a strap that winds around the wrist several times like the body of a snake and ends in a drop-shaped case representing the head of the snake. My current choice is the reference 102123, the Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas in stainless steel and 18K rose gold. The black opaline dial with sunburst guilloché pattern and hand-applied indices has a classically understated look that doesn’t steal the show from the overall design. The matching rose-colored cabochon crown is the icing on the cake. The list price for this elegant companion is just over $12,000 – that’s actually over my budget. On Chrono24, however, I’ve found variants for as little as $10,000, which very nearly keeps me within my spending limit.
