05/14/2020
 5 minutes

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: If you like this watch, you might also like…

By Jorg Weppelink
CAM-1111-Royal-Oak-2-1

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: If you like this watch, you might also like…

When you first develop an interest in luxury watches, the diversity of established brands, historic manufacturers, and independent watchmakers can seem overwhelming. Most of us only come across a fraction of what the market has to offer from advertisements or social connections. The entry point into the world of watches for many novice collectors is a popular model from one of the industry giants.

Whether that timepiece really is their dream watch is another matter. Perhaps the brand is too ubiquitous and not unique enough. Maybe the timepiece simply doesn’t match their personality. It could be that their true dream watch is beyond their budget. You’ve probably had similar thoughts at some point and may have even questioned whether a different timepiece might suit you better. In this series, we explore some surprising alternatives to the industry’s most popular models. Who knows, you may even be inspired to look outside the box when buying your next watch.

Alternatives to the Iconic Royal Oak

In this installment, we’re taking a look at alternatives to the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The Royal Oak was the first in a long line of successful luxury sports watches, and some might argue that there is no true alternative to the original. Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak at the 1972 Basel Fair (today known as Baselworld) in the midst of the quartz crisis. At the time, the Swiss watch industry was suffering as more and more consumers were interested in buying cheaper quartz alternatives. Audemars Piguet saw the Royal Oak as the way to save their company.

Royal Oak ref. 5402
Royal Oak ref. 5402

The stainless steel Royal Oak 5402 had an initial list price of 3,300 CHF. In 1972, that was more than a yellow gold Patek Philippe and ten times the cost of a Rolex Submariner. Although the Royal Oak was not an instant success, it did turn out to be the lifesaver the company was hoping for. Gérald Genta’s incredible design remains the industry standard for a luxury sports watch to this day – having even influenced other Genta designs. Today, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra Thin (ref. 15202) remains an expensive investment with a list price of $25,800. But then again, you’d be wearing the direct descendant of the original 1972 watch, a piece of horological history.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Jumbo 3700
Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700, Image: Bert Buijsrogge

1. Patek Philippe Nautilus

Any list of alternatives to the Royal Oak has to begin with the Patek Philippe Nautilus. As the story goes, Gérald Genta drew the design for the Nautilus on a napkin during the 1974 Basel Fair. Two years after that, Patek Philippe introduced the Nautilus as “one of the world’s costliest watches is made of steel.” The Nautilus was a unique watch for a brand known for their use of precious metals, but it turned out to be “pure gold” nonetheless.

The Royal Oak and the Nautilus are regarded as the world’s original and most prestigious luxury sports watches. Over the last 40+ years, Patek Philippe has built an entire collection of Nautilus models, ranging from a stainless steel descendent of the original (ref. 3700) to rose gold and white gold versions with a moon phase complication or chronograph. Similar to the Royal Oak, it is extremely difficult to get your hands on a Nautilus from an authorized dealer. There are long waiting lists and if you do manage to get one, be prepared to pay a lot of money. The current stainless steel Nautilus (ref. 5711/1A) retails for around $33,000.

In summary, many consider the Patek Philippe Nautilus the Royal Oak’s only true competitor. It was also designed by Genta and introduced in the same era by a brand with a reputation on par with that of Audemars Piguet.

IWC Ingenieur SL Jumbo
IWC Ingenieur SL Jumbo

2. IWC Ingenieur

The second alternative is the IWC Ingenieur. As one of the three original luxury steel sports watches (designed by – you guessed it – Gérald Genta), it would feel wrong to leave the Ingenieur off this list. That said, the current IWC Ingenieur does not resemble the 1976 model created by Genta, so it’s debatable whether or not a modern Ingenieur can stand in for a Royal Oak. The Ingenieur name has been part of the IWC catalog since the mid-1950s, and today’s collection draws more inspiration from that era than the 1970s. Although Genta did not design the first Ingenieur watch, he made the collection famous.

If you’re looking for a less expensive alternative to the Royal Oak that still has a direct connection to the man who drafted the original luxury sports watches, the Ingenieur is the watch for you. However, you’ll have to search the pre-owned market for a watch with the right look, as IWC kept the spirit of the original Ingenieur SL “Jumbo” (ref. 1832) alive in several of their past models.

IWC Ingenieur ref. 3227
IWC Ingenieur ref. 3227

You can buy the original Genta watch for around $16,500. For something more affordable, consider the 2005 Ingenieur ref. 3227 or the 2013 Ingenieur ref. 3239. Both models resemble the original Genta version from 1976. I, for one, hope IWC will eventually revitalize the link to the 1970s Genta Ingenieur, thus creating a more direct alternative to the Royal Oak.

In summary, the IWC Ingenieur is the most affordable of the three luxury steel sports watches designed by Genta in the 1970s. Although the current IWC Ingenieur collection has no direct link to the Genta watch, many previous models make more budget-friendly alternatives to the Royal Oak.

Hublot Big Bang
Hublot Big Bang

3. Hublot Big Bang

The third and final alternative is the Hublot Big Bang. The Big Bang’s design is based on the Hublot Classic Fusion from 1980. Back then, Hublot took the Royal Oak’s iconic porthole design and made it their own. Hublot went for a round bezel instead of an octagonal bezel, an integrated rubber strap instead of a steel bracelet, a quartz movement instead of a mechanical one, and (to top it all off) the Classic Fusion was a lot more affordable than the Royal Oak.

Fast forward 25 years to when the Big Bang was first introduced at Baselworld 2005. Some people argued it looked too much like a Royal Oak, while others praised Hublot for creating a watch inspired by the Classic Fusion. Many thought it could be successful step forward for the brand. Whatever your personal opinion, the Hublot Big Bang has proven a solid alternative to the Royal Oak.

The Big Bang is larger than the Classic Fusion and relies exclusively on mechanical movements. The current Big Bang collection contains a wide variety of models, but the standard stainless steel Big Bang is more affordable than a Royal Oak with a list price of about $13,600.

In summary, the Hublot Big Bang’s design has clear connections to the Royal Oak. However, Hublot has still managed to create a successful collection with its own unique feel. A more affordable option than the Royal Oak, the Big Bang could very well be the perfect alternative for you.

 There you have it: three alternatives to the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Each has its own unique story and is a well-respected and iconic watch in its own right. This just goes to show that there are many great luxury steel sports watches out there.

Read more

New Additions to IWC’s Highly Successful Pilot’s Collection

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore vs. Hublot Big Bang

More Than a Century of High-End Watchmaking with Audemars Piguet


About the Author

Jorg Weppelink

Hi, I'm Jorg, and I've been writing articles for Chrono24 since 2016. However, my relationship with Chrono24 goes back a bit longer, as my love for watches began …

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